A day out in town,
ambling down green boulevards,
shining summer sun.
Leaving the forest to the hoards of climbers that have descended for the long week-end (Ascension week-end in this part of Europe), we decided on a spot of tourism.
Milly-la-Forêt is only 5km away, our nearest town, and for the last few weeks we have been meaning to go and have a good look around. Well known as a centre for medicinal plants and herbs, this week-end the town is hosting a Marché de l'Herboriste in it's 500 year old outdoor market hall. So we thought we'd go for a wander...
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La porte du Moustier de Péronne. | |
La porte du Moustier de Péronne, the entrance gate to the estate granted by King Dagobert I, is pretty much all that is left of the initial settlement of Milly-la-Forêt from the 600's. The round stone tower of the colombier (dove cote) which has an amazing 1200 alcoves for birds was built not much later, and is the only building that survived the destruction of the estate in the 1400's.
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Awesome colombier (dove cote). |
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We wandered along green boulevards under linden and chestnut trees that kept off the hot sun. The tree-lined boulevards circle around the town centre, having been planted in the filled-in ancient fortification ditches, Milly of the 18th and 19th centuries not having the same need for protection from armed bandits as in earlier times.
On the southern edge of the town we visited the chapel of St Blaise des Simples, a 12th century chapel once part of a hospital for lepers (simples = medicinal herbs). It is a peaceful corner, surrounded by a medicinal herb garden. The interior of the chapel was repainted in 1959 by Jean Cocteau in a sympathetic, simple manner, celebrating both medicinal herbs (including the local Milly mint) and resurrection - it also contains his tomb. We didn't take any photographs inside, not wanting to disturb the serenity of the chapel for the other visitors.
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Well in the grounds of la chapelle Saint Blaise des simples. |
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You don't need much French to understand don't touch in case of deplorable accidents... |
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Neil in the medicinal herb garden - he didn't touch anything. | |
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Chapel doorway. |
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There are lots of pet dogs in France, which can be a bit of a problem in the towns. In Milly-la-Forêt we saw a couple of efforts to combat this.
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Canine public toilet. |
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Très drôle n'est pas ? |
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"Très drôle, n'est pas ?" is what an elderly French gentleman said to me as I was looking at the sign, before he also stopped to take a photo. So I guess these posters are not found in every town.
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Pretty pale blue shutters. |
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Blue shutters, grey stone and a 12th century church at the end of the street. |
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On our weekly rides into Milly to do the grocery shopping, it is a pleasure just to be able to take the time to look around instead of hurrying here, hurrying there. I have seen, around windows and doors, shutters of almost every imaginable colour - white, cream, puce, violet, deep red, maroon, tan, dark brown, pale green, deep green and black. As well as the ubiquitous roses, in just as many colours, climbing up stone walls or just by in pots by front doors, they add a lovely touch of colour to the pale grey stone walls and buildings.
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Street paved the old fashioned way, with central drain. |
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Milly castle (originally built 1300's, restored in 1475) | |
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Medieval washing pond for laundry. |
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Thatched 'cottage'. |
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We pass this house every time we go grocery shopping and it always amazes me. There is another immaculately thatched house right next door. I don't know if they are old or new but I just love the organic shape of the roof. In Normandy there was an area we passed through with quite a lot of thatched houses and they all had flowers planted along the ridge top !
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Neil, waiting patiently. |
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Now, earlier I mentioned that there was a market under the old hall. It was great - full of stalls of organic produce, medicinal herbs, books, plants, food. In fact we got so engrossed and so excited about our purchases - freshly baked baguettes, quiches and dessert - that we completely forgot to take any photos !
Oh well, there is also a fresh food market held under la halle every Thursday afternoon, as there has been for the past 500 odd years. So we'll just have to go back...
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words by Gabby, pics by Neil and Gabby
Seeing these beautiful villages and houses makes me want to go back to France - we've seen such a small part of it. After the calm of villages, I never felt the desire to attack the big cities. The food markets are perfect for you both - life back here will be full of comparisons when you return. You'll just have to seek out the farmer's markets etc. I'm enjoying your blogs SO MUCH - like a good book I don't want to put down. x Des
ReplyDeleteI love the stone work, shutters and thatched roofs.
ReplyDeleteNow Neil may not have touched anything in the medicinal herb garden but I bet Gabby did!!
Lishaxx
No, actually I was very good - I didn't want any deplorable accidents happening to me !
ReplyDeleteGabby