Neutral Territory

Cycling in the rain

along rough and muddy trails -

the green Rhine below.

We think the Swiss have discovered a way to remove sunshine from peoples lives. We entered Switzerland at Basel, in sunshine and by the time we left Stein am Rhein for Germany in the rain, it felt like we'd been under a cloud for four days.

Coming from France, where everyone says 'bon jour' to you, to being in a country where people will look at your bikes as you ride past but are determined not to look at you, let alone nod, smile or say 'hello' was very disconcerting. But it wasn't all that bad – we cycled through some lovely countryside and we did encounter four friendly local people.

On Saturday morning we left Mulhouse, France for Basel, Switzerland, riding mostly along the last section of the canal du Rhone au Rhin, to where it meets up with the Rhine river. The lovely sunny path ran along above the canal, flanked by masses of yellow and white wildflowers. We arrived in Basel at lunchtime, the pedestrian friendly centre of town teeming with people. 

Basel and the Rhine river.

Here we discovered that our French was useless (unless talking to French tourists) and that we had better hurry up and learn some German. Though many people do speak some English, we find it is much better to break the ice by trying to speak the local language – then you all have something to laugh about.

Having obtained directions to a bookshop with a decent English language department (Bider & Tanner, Aeschenvorstadt if anyone needs to know), we then stocked up on a few novels (only four – which won't last long – we are really regretting not getting Kindles before we left Dublin) and a Swiss velo map. Tried some local pastries – very nice, then headed out of town on the velo route.

Thought we were doing well through the labrynthine pathways until we came upon a sign pointing, in the direction we were heading, to Basel 4km (after having travelled 16km away from Basel). Whilst trying to work out where to go on our (very vague) map, we were rescued by a fellow cyclist, whose name unfortunately we did not get. A local, out for a Saturday afternoon ride, she lead us several kilometres through the outskirts of Basel to a place where we could easily follow the route. With her husband, she had ridden the velo route from Basel to the Black Sea last year and sympathised with lost cycle tourists. Getting in and out of cities is always the hard part.

Our tiny spot in the very busy Kaiseraugst campingplatz. 

We stayed that night in Kaiseraugst, near where the Roman garrison town of Augusta Raurica used to be located, in a very busy caravan park right on the bank of the Rhine river. A fierce storm awoke us before 6 the next morning with wild winds and heavy rain. The winds abated but the rain did not, so we had another soaking cycle on Sunday (how's that for alliteration, Lisha?). We passed through some lovely countryside, pastoral and forested, stopping at a Waldhaus (forest house) to cook ourselves a hot lunch and dry out for a bit. When we saw the river Rhine again later in the day we were amazed at it's colour – a vivid jade green, and very fast flowing.

Waldhaus, between Rheinfelden and Bad Sackingen.

I had thought to try the natural thermal mineral baths at Bad Zurzach, but by the time we arrived there I had really had enough of a soaking. The campground was the most expensive yet – 25 Swiss Francs (about €23) but we got our money's worth in their very nicely appointed hot showers.

From Bad Zurzach we headed over the Rhine and the border to Germany for the morning, sun and rain alternating throughout the day. The German cycle paths are extremely well sign posted, it was a very nice change from the haphazard signage in both Switzerland and France. We crossed back and forth between Switzerland and Germany, north of the Rhine, all afternoon, passing Kaiserstuhl, a lovely looking village, the southern end of the Schwartzwald, apple and walnut orchards, occasional fields of wheat and sunflowers as well as plenty of south facing grape vines (taller than the Burgundian ones and not as ferociously trimmed). 

Not sure if this was Germany or Switzerland - it's raining, so probably Switzerland.

 

Along the river we passed the Rhinefall where the river drops 20m just near the town of Schaffhausen, then on to the village of Stein am Rhein, with it's very well preserved medieval town centre, just before Lake Constance. We didn't go to Lake Constance, but we did spend an extra day in Stein am Rhein having a bit of a look around – and a break from touring because we'd been on the go for five days.

Rheinfall, with Schaffhausen in the background.

The sun came out for the couple of pleasant hours that we spent strolling around Stein am Rhein, having lunch on a picnic bench overlooking the busy river. Then it rained again in the afternoon. And the next day when we left for Donaueshingen in Germany.

Wonky house, Stein am Rhein.

Stein am Rhein, muralled walls.

Mural detail, Stein am Rhein

Stein am Rhein rathausplatz.

Neil and a modern wall mural, Stein am Rhein.

Yesterday's ride to Donaueschingen was a very long, wet, tiring, windy and hilly 70km. But it still beats working as a wage slave.

Unfortunately 20km from Donaueschingen, Neil's back wheel developed a funny noise and when we stopped to check it out, discovered that the rim of his back wheel had cracked. It had cracked and bulged out, the noise we heard was it hitting the brake pad on every revolution. Not good. So the wheel would turn freely he had to disconnect the back brake and he cycled the last 20km going carefully, avoiding bumps as much as possible. 

Lunch break after the first and the worst of the many hills.

Not something you really want to see - Neil's bike, again.

So, today we are in Donaueschingen still, resting our legs after yesterday's epic, having had Neil's bike fixed this morning (and we thought we might as well put mine in for a quick service while we were there). We picked up a few bits and pieces for the bikes (extra brake pads, chain oil etc) and light and airy new helmets – our old ones bought in Dublin were a bit hot and heavy on the warmer days. After only one day in the country we are finding the German people much friendlier than the Swiss. And most things much cheaper.

The source of the Danube, as recognised by Tiberius in 15AD.

Statue at the source - Mother Baar pointing the young maiden Danube to the east.

Storks storking their prey...(sorry Neil made me do it).

We made our obligatory visit to see the official source of the Donau (Danube) river – the Donauquelle – since we will be following the river down it's 2800 odd kilometre length to the Black Sea. Tomorrow, we start on the Danube leg of our journey...

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